Last Tuesday I’ve rescaped my well established tank, I moved about 22L of the water into buckets, took all the plants out and I took my Betta and the snail out and put them in one of the buckets. This aquascape didn’t require me to use aqua glue or nothing that like that. I just moved few things around and added new plants.
I then gently put the water back in to avoid any substrate from moving. Added my fish and snail back in and everything was fine. The water was slightly gloomy (it just wasn’t crystal clear) so I let the filter do the job. 2 days ago I’ve noticed that my Betta was always hiding and only coming out to eat. Last night my mom asked me why isn’t the tank clear yet and that’s when I realised that something is wrong. Did water tests and everything looked fine. Today the water isn’t gloomy anymore and is clear but I noticed the white thing on my Betta. I think it’s fungus what does everybody else think?
What is the best way to heal it using over the shelf products (UK Based)
Tank: 25L
Temperature: 25c
Heater and Filter
No3: 20
No2: 0
pH: 7.0
KH: 80
GH: 60
Ammonia: 0
No other fish in the tank, just 1 small Ramshorn Snail
https://www.reddit.com/gallery/1fydzzy
Posted by MartinMSx
2 Comments
I can’t diagnose but it looks like columnaris, not a fungal infection.
If it gets fuzzy & hair like fuzz on it, its usually a fungus. If its not very fuzzy and is more like velvet and causes sores- its columnaris. (High mortality rate)
I saw that alot of people had success on other forums using Furan-2 & Kanaplex as a treatment.
Wishing you the best of luck!
Based on your description and the photos, it does look like your betta might have a fungal infection. Fungal infections usually appear as white, cotton-like growths on the fish’s body, which could match what you’re seeing. It’s possible that the stress of the tank rescaping and the temporary move caused some stress, which can sometimes lead to fungal infections.
For treatment, here are some over-the-counter options available in the UK:
1. Anti-Fungal Treatments: Look for aquarium-safe anti-fungal treatments such as King British Anti-Fungus & Finrot or Interpet Anti Fungus and Finrot. Follow the instructions on the label carefully.
2. Aquarium Salt: Adding aquarium salt (about 1 teaspoon per gallon) can help with mild infections. Ensure you dissolve the salt in water before adding it to the tank and avoid overuse, especially if you have live plants or sensitive tank mates like snails.
3. Increase Temperature Slightly: While 25°C is within the safe range for bettas, slightly increasing the temperature (to around 27°C) can sometimes help boost the fish’s immune response. Avoid going above this, though, as high temperatures can cause stress.
4. Quarantine: If possible, set up a small quarantine tank for your betta while treating. This can help prevent the spread of fungus in your main tank and also allow you to use medication without affecting your plants and snail.
Keep an eye on your betta, and if the white growth doesn’t start to improve within a few days of treatment, or if it worsens, consider consulting a local aquarium specialist or vet for additional advice.
If it’s not a fungal infection, the white growth on your betta could be one of the following:
1. Bacterial Infection: Bacterial infections can sometimes appear as white or grayish patches, especially if they’re beginning to rot the fins or scales. Common symptoms include redness, frayed fins, or ulcers. For treatment, consider using a broad-spectrum antibiotic like API Melafix or Interpet Anti Internal Bacteria.
2. Columnaris: This is a bacterial infection that often looks like a white or gray cottony growth, similar to a fungal infection, but it can also have a yellowish tint and can spread quickly. Columnaris often requires more aggressive treatment with an antibiotic like API Furan-2 or a columnaris-specific treatment.
3. Lymphocystis: This is a viral infection that causes white, cauliflower-like growths. It’s not treatable with medication, but improving water quality and reducing stress can help manage it. The infection generally isn’t fatal but can persist for a long time.
4. Parasites (Ich): Although ich typically appears as tiny white spots rather than patches, it’s worth considering. Ich is often accompanied by other symptoms like rubbing against objects, rapid breathing, or lethargy. Medications like Protozin or Esha Exit are often used to treat ich.
5. Mucus Shedding or Injury: If your betta has recently been stressed or injured, it might develop a white, mucous-like film as a protective response. This isn’t an infection but a sign that something in the tank environment might be off.
If you’re unsure, it’s best to start by improving water quality and observing closely for any changes. Also, using a broad-spectrum medication that covers both bacterial and fungal infections, like Pimafix, can sometimes be effective if the exact cause isn’t clear.